I just managed to rediscover the CATalyst Council's video page. I guess that's sort of like reinventing the wheel.......
My personal favorite is Scotty's trip to the vet from his own perspective.
For clients, my top recommend is for the two videos about getting your cat accustomed to the carrier.
Showing posts with label Kittens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kittens. Show all posts
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Video of Cat Giving Birth
Not many people living in Los Angeles these days have seen a cat actually giving birth. But thanks to the wonders of the intertubes, we have THIS VIDEO of a cat "queening".
While it's a wonderfully educational video, I do have one concern. Queening cats do far better if they are left alone in a dark, quiet place without humans or other animals around to disturb them. It is uncommon, but they have been known to kill and eat their kittens when overstressed by their presence.
The average litter size is 3 or 4, but I have personally seen a litter of 7 and I think more is not unheard of.
We still recommend spaying female cats at age 6 months to prevent pregnancy and greatly lower the risk of mammary cancer. In this economy, too few kittens are being adopted into good homes, so watch the video and have your own cat spayed before she can have any.
While it's a wonderfully educational video, I do have one concern. Queening cats do far better if they are left alone in a dark, quiet place without humans or other animals around to disturb them. It is uncommon, but they have been known to kill and eat their kittens when overstressed by their presence.
The average litter size is 3 or 4, but I have personally seen a litter of 7 and I think more is not unheard of.
We still recommend spaying female cats at age 6 months to prevent pregnancy and greatly lower the risk of mammary cancer. In this economy, too few kittens are being adopted into good homes, so watch the video and have your own cat spayed before she can have any.
Friday, December 24, 2010
How to Rescue Orphaned Kittens
My own experience with rescuing tiny kittens is rather limited (and there was that one bottle baby years ago that became psychotic as a result of inadequate cat-to-cat interaction that I regret), but some veterinarians are better with that whole complicated, energy-sapping deal. Here's an excellent article on the subject with tips from a pro.
Sunday, October 31, 2010
Little Miss(ed) Pancake Needs A Home
You may recall how a stray kitten was brought in to us a couple of weeks ago after colliding with the wheel of a passing car. She had a head injury and some cuts and scrapes and bruises, from which she has completely healed.
Little Miss(ed)Pancake (called that because she just missed becoming a pancake) is 10 weeks old, using her litter box uneventfully, plays normally with people and toys, and loves to lie in your lap and sleep. She has been dewormed and vaccinated once against FVRCP, and is ready to go to a new home.
Unfortunately, the kind man who saved her life by bringing her in has not followed through with his plan to adopt her, so we are putting her on the open market. Please contact the front desk to arrange to meet her if you are interested. We will be insisting that she be kept 100% indoors, and that she go to a home with another cat (she obviously misses having her mom/littermates around). She will need two more visits for preventive care over the next 2 months, and will need to be spayed after that.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Online Resources: Part 2 - Behavior / Environment
This time I'm posting links to some good information on feline behavior, environment, and the veterinary encounter.
Cornell Feline Health Center - lots of good information, some on behavior (scattered around) - 3 behavior brochures here - - scroll down to the bottom here for some CatWatch articles on behavior.
Ohio State Univ. Indoor Cat Initiative - REALLY great resource on keeping cats indoors and the behavioral issues invloved.
Humane Society of the U.S. - Keeping Your Cat Happy Indoors - another very helpful and informative site.
Feline Advisory Bureau - The Cat Friendly Home
Feline Advisory Bureau - Bringing Your Cat to the Vet
Dumb Friends' League "Play With Your Cat"
And here are some tips on taking your cat to the veterinarian (compliments of Hill's Pet Nutrition):
The cat carrier:
Always transport the cat in a carrier or other safe container.
• Train cats to view the carrier as a safe haven and “home away from home.” Keep the carrier out in the home. Put treats, favorite toys, or blankets inside to entice the cat into the carrier.
• Carriers with both top and front openings are recommended. Top-loading carriers allow for stress-free placement and removal of the cat and enable them to be examined while remaining in the bottom half of the carrier.
• Bring the cat’s favorite treats, toys, and blanket. If the cat likes to be groomed, bring its favorite grooming equipment.
• If the cat has previously had negative experiences at a veterinary hospital, the veterinarian may prescribe a short-duration antianxiety medication that should be given approximately one hour prior to the visit.
The car ride:
• Take the cat for regular rides in the carrier, starting with very short ones, to places other than the veterinary hospital.
• Because cats may get carsick, do not feed the cat for at least an hour prior to travel.
At the hospital:
• Reward desired behaviors, even small ones, with treats, verbal praise, and other things the cat likes (e.g., brushing, massaging, playing).
• Remain calm and speak in a soft voice to help the cat remain calm. If a situation is upsetting for the pet owner, the cat may do better if that person leaves the room.
• Always allow a trained veterinary team member to handle the cat. Even the sweetest and most laid-back cat can become aroused and fearful in a strange environment. Anxiety may cause the cat to act out of character and bite or scratch.
• Discuss techniques that might make future visits more relaxing for the pet owner and the cat.
Cornell Feline Health Center - lots of good information, some on behavior (scattered around) - 3 behavior brochures here - - scroll down to the bottom here for some CatWatch articles on behavior.
Ohio State Univ. Indoor Cat Initiative - REALLY great resource on keeping cats indoors and the behavioral issues invloved.
Humane Society of the U.S. - Keeping Your Cat Happy Indoors - another very helpful and informative site.
Feline Advisory Bureau - The Cat Friendly Home
Feline Advisory Bureau - Bringing Your Cat to the Vet
Dumb Friends' League "Play With Your Cat"
And here are some tips on taking your cat to the veterinarian (compliments of Hill's Pet Nutrition):
The cat carrier:
Always transport the cat in a carrier or other safe container.
• Train cats to view the carrier as a safe haven and “home away from home.” Keep the carrier out in the home. Put treats, favorite toys, or blankets inside to entice the cat into the carrier.
• Carriers with both top and front openings are recommended. Top-loading carriers allow for stress-free placement and removal of the cat and enable them to be examined while remaining in the bottom half of the carrier.
• Bring the cat’s favorite treats, toys, and blanket. If the cat likes to be groomed, bring its favorite grooming equipment.
• If the cat has previously had negative experiences at a veterinary hospital, the veterinarian may prescribe a short-duration antianxiety medication that should be given approximately one hour prior to the visit.
The car ride:
• Take the cat for regular rides in the carrier, starting with very short ones, to places other than the veterinary hospital.
• Because cats may get carsick, do not feed the cat for at least an hour prior to travel.
At the hospital:
• Reward desired behaviors, even small ones, with treats, verbal praise, and other things the cat likes (e.g., brushing, massaging, playing).
• Remain calm and speak in a soft voice to help the cat remain calm. If a situation is upsetting for the pet owner, the cat may do better if that person leaves the room.
• Always allow a trained veterinary team member to handle the cat. Even the sweetest and most laid-back cat can become aroused and fearful in a strange environment. Anxiety may cause the cat to act out of character and bite or scratch.
• Discuss techniques that might make future visits more relaxing for the pet owner and the cat.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
"Fixing" Your Girl Kitty
We have had a minor flurry of young female cat surgeries of late. You see, it's "that time of year" - when last spring's crop of girl kittens has become old enough to neuter ("spay" is the slang term). We recommend spaying females at 6 months of age, after the kitten vaccinations have been finished, but before most females come into estrus ("heat"). By the age of 6 months, we no longer consider it to be pediatric anesthesia, so it is much safer than in a younger cat.
Back in the old days, the thinking was that going through a heat cycle or even getting pregnant and having a litter made a cat a much better pet. We now know that is simply not true. And we DO know that the more times a female cat goes through heat, the greater the chance of her developing mammary cancer down the road. So we like to beat Mother Nature to the punch, and the target date of 6 months works best when we consider all the factors involved.
Prior to making an appointment for your cat's spay, we will need to have seen her at least once for a physical exam, and also to ensure that vaccinations are complete per our hospital's protocol. We cannot schedule this surgery if we have never seen your cat - the exam is a mandatory prerequisite. Please do not ask our reception staff to waive this rule - we do this to ensure your cat gets the safest surgery experience we can deliver.
Once you have our official go-ahead on the surgery, you can make your appointment. We only do spays on weekdays. You will be instructed to withhold food (not water) at a certain time, and then be told what time to drop her off the morning of surgery (usually 8:30-9:30 AM but this can vary). Surgery will be performed that morning, and kitty will need to stay one night in the hospital for the equivalent of enforced bed rest in humans. Again, this is a safety policy and not subject to negotiation. No one is here at night, but your cat doesn't spend that night post-op because she is in critical condition - she stays so that she will be confined to a small space and forced through sheer boredom to get a good night's sleep. We never leave a patient unattended if we are not satisfied that it is completely stable and recovering normally.
The procedure itself is considered major abdominal surgery, though it is one of the less technically demanding surgeries we do. Ovaries and uterus are completely removed - this is not simply a tubal ligation. The sutures that we place in the abdominal wall and skin are absorbable, so no post-op recheck for suture removal is needed. You may, however, see a lump or knot about an inch wide at the surgery site - this is perfectly normal but varies in magnitude from cat to cat - it's just the body recognizing the wound, starting healing, and starting to absorb the suture material. Please note that drainage or worsening redness at the surgery site are NOT normal and always necessitate a recheck, as does failure to return to normal activity levels after a couple of days.
Most kitties have only a day or so of slightly subdued behavior post-op, and then get right back to bouncing off the walls. So we discourage throwing frisbees for them for at least a week. And yes, the fur WILL grow back!
Back in the old days, the thinking was that going through a heat cycle or even getting pregnant and having a litter made a cat a much better pet. We now know that is simply not true. And we DO know that the more times a female cat goes through heat, the greater the chance of her developing mammary cancer down the road. So we like to beat Mother Nature to the punch, and the target date of 6 months works best when we consider all the factors involved.
Prior to making an appointment for your cat's spay, we will need to have seen her at least once for a physical exam, and also to ensure that vaccinations are complete per our hospital's protocol. We cannot schedule this surgery if we have never seen your cat - the exam is a mandatory prerequisite. Please do not ask our reception staff to waive this rule - we do this to ensure your cat gets the safest surgery experience we can deliver.
Once you have our official go-ahead on the surgery, you can make your appointment. We only do spays on weekdays. You will be instructed to withhold food (not water) at a certain time, and then be told what time to drop her off the morning of surgery (usually 8:30-9:30 AM but this can vary). Surgery will be performed that morning, and kitty will need to stay one night in the hospital for the equivalent of enforced bed rest in humans. Again, this is a safety policy and not subject to negotiation. No one is here at night, but your cat doesn't spend that night post-op because she is in critical condition - she stays so that she will be confined to a small space and forced through sheer boredom to get a good night's sleep. We never leave a patient unattended if we are not satisfied that it is completely stable and recovering normally.
The procedure itself is considered major abdominal surgery, though it is one of the less technically demanding surgeries we do. Ovaries and uterus are completely removed - this is not simply a tubal ligation. The sutures that we place in the abdominal wall and skin are absorbable, so no post-op recheck for suture removal is needed. You may, however, see a lump or knot about an inch wide at the surgery site - this is perfectly normal but varies in magnitude from cat to cat - it's just the body recognizing the wound, starting healing, and starting to absorb the suture material. Please note that drainage or worsening redness at the surgery site are NOT normal and always necessitate a recheck, as does failure to return to normal activity levels after a couple of days.
Most kitties have only a day or so of slightly subdued behavior post-op, and then get right back to bouncing off the walls. So we discourage throwing frisbees for them for at least a week. And yes, the fur WILL grow back!
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Kitten Care Basics: Behavior/Training
Locate your kitten's food/water away from the litter box. The sleeping area should also be some distance from the litter box. And yes, it is ok for kitty to sleep with you in your bed. Good luck stopping it!
Do not reward early morning fussing with food or attention. Teach your kitten through habit that feeding time is when YOU get up and get into the kitchen (to be fair this should be the same general time every day). Gently but firmly discourage nighttime pestering. Have a major play session before bedtime to encourage actual sleeping at night.
Teach kitty the meaning of the word: NO. Strategic use af a squirt gun or bottle is alsohelpful in discouraging undesirable behavior such as jumping onto counters and dining tables, and clawing at furniture. Physical discipline such as hitting does not generally work with cats and can backfire badly. Do not use your hands as playthings OR weapons because cats will learn this "game" well and hurt you.
Do not discipline your kitten for litter box use problems. Consult your veterinarian about it before it becomes a persistent habit. Most these problems are easily solved with adjustments in the environment.
Get your cat a scratching post and cardboard scratcher boxes to lay on the floor - cats LOVE these. Use squirt gun and two-sided tape in your quest to prevent furniture damage. We only declaw as a last resort with destructive cats - never without exhausting other options.
Be aware of your own play behavior with your kitten. NEVER use your hands as playthings - let the kitten attack its toys instead to ensure it stays gentle with humans. Make sure everyone in the home knows and obeys this rule - particularly young boys (who have a well-known tendency to play rough). Keep your kitten's claws clipped short so no one gets hurt if play does get rough.
Make sure everyone in the home knows and is on board with house rules for the cat: where it is and is not allowed inside the home, whether or not it is allowed outside, how to play, how to discipline, and who is responsible for feeding (this should be an adult or very reliable teen only) and litter box care (adult only).
Remember that veterinarians are trained in behavior as well as medicine and surgery. Don't hesitate to set up an appointment for an exam and consultation for your behavior problems, and deal with them earlier rather than later.
Do not reward early morning fussing with food or attention. Teach your kitten through habit that feeding time is when YOU get up and get into the kitchen (to be fair this should be the same general time every day). Gently but firmly discourage nighttime pestering. Have a major play session before bedtime to encourage actual sleeping at night.
Teach kitty the meaning of the word: NO. Strategic use af a squirt gun or bottle is alsohelpful in discouraging undesirable behavior such as jumping onto counters and dining tables, and clawing at furniture. Physical discipline such as hitting does not generally work with cats and can backfire badly. Do not use your hands as playthings OR weapons because cats will learn this "game" well and hurt you.
Do not discipline your kitten for litter box use problems. Consult your veterinarian about it before it becomes a persistent habit. Most these problems are easily solved with adjustments in the environment.
Get your cat a scratching post and cardboard scratcher boxes to lay on the floor - cats LOVE these. Use squirt gun and two-sided tape in your quest to prevent furniture damage. We only declaw as a last resort with destructive cats - never without exhausting other options.
Be aware of your own play behavior with your kitten. NEVER use your hands as playthings - let the kitten attack its toys instead to ensure it stays gentle with humans. Make sure everyone in the home knows and obeys this rule - particularly young boys (who have a well-known tendency to play rough). Keep your kitten's claws clipped short so no one gets hurt if play does get rough.
Make sure everyone in the home knows and is on board with house rules for the cat: where it is and is not allowed inside the home, whether or not it is allowed outside, how to play, how to discipline, and who is responsible for feeding (this should be an adult or very reliable teen only) and litter box care (adult only).
Remember that veterinarians are trained in behavior as well as medicine and surgery. Don't hesitate to set up an appointment for an exam and consultation for your behavior problems, and deal with them earlier rather than later.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
Kitten Care Basics: Medical
We've all heard that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and that is especially true when it comes to kittens. Proper preventive medical care in early feline life sets the stage for a lifetime of good health.
At Cat's Meow Veterinary Clinic we recommend a series of three well-kitten visits at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. For kittens presented for the first time before or after 8 weeks, we can tailor a schedule based on individual criteria.
First visit: We recommend bringing in all newly acquired kittens within a few days of obtaining them. In the case of bottle babies this is sometimes as early as a few days of age.
8 week visit: First FVRCP (distemper and upper respiratory) vaccination, first parasite treatment (for fleas, ear mites, roundworms, hookworms).
12 week visit: Second FVRCP vaccination, first FeLV (feline leukemia virus) vaccination, second parasite treatment, and screening tests for FeLV (feline leukemia virus) and FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus).
16 week visit: Third FVRCP vaccination, second FeLV vaccination, and a one-year Rabies vaccination.
6 months: Best age to spay females
8 months: Best age to neuter males
During these very important first examinations, you should take the opportunity to discuss any health or behavior concerns you might have. We generally spend some time discussing housing, nutrition, safety, and behavioral issues.
Obviously, if your kitten is listless, not eating enthusiastically, or has any coughing, sneezing, vomiting, diarrhea, or does not seem to be growing properly, you should bring it in before the next scheduled preventive care visit. Kittens have very little energy reserve or ability to fight disease on their own, so prompt intervention is critical if they become ill.
Remember, we want your kitten to grow up healthy and have a long life, and the best time to lay the groundwork is right at the start.
At Cat's Meow Veterinary Clinic we recommend a series of three well-kitten visits at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age. For kittens presented for the first time before or after 8 weeks, we can tailor a schedule based on individual criteria.
First visit: We recommend bringing in all newly acquired kittens within a few days of obtaining them. In the case of bottle babies this is sometimes as early as a few days of age.
8 week visit: First FVRCP (distemper and upper respiratory) vaccination, first parasite treatment (for fleas, ear mites, roundworms, hookworms).
12 week visit: Second FVRCP vaccination, first FeLV (feline leukemia virus) vaccination, second parasite treatment, and screening tests for FeLV (feline leukemia virus) and FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus).
16 week visit: Third FVRCP vaccination, second FeLV vaccination, and a one-year Rabies vaccination.
6 months: Best age to spay females
8 months: Best age to neuter males
During these very important first examinations, you should take the opportunity to discuss any health or behavior concerns you might have. We generally spend some time discussing housing, nutrition, safety, and behavioral issues.
Obviously, if your kitten is listless, not eating enthusiastically, or has any coughing, sneezing, vomiting, diarrhea, or does not seem to be growing properly, you should bring it in before the next scheduled preventive care visit. Kittens have very little energy reserve or ability to fight disease on their own, so prompt intervention is critical if they become ill.
Remember, we want your kitten to grow up healthy and have a long life, and the best time to lay the groundwork is right at the start.
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Kitten Care Basics: General Husbandry and Nutrition
Having a new kitten is an exciting experience, but it carries great responsibility. Your new kitten will need a lot of attention and care, so it's a good idea to learn some basics about these wonderful creatures. Your relationship with kitty will benefit tremendously.
First vet visit: Schedule your new kitten's first visit with us for 3-7 days after you obtain it (sooner if it is still not on solid food). The first visit for vaccinations/parasite treatment is normally at 8 weeks of age, but kittens younger than that still need to be seen to make sure they do not have any immediate medical concerns. Obviously if kitty has vomiting, diarrhea, visible parasites, or is not eating enthusiastically, it needs to be seen promptly.
Naming: Keep it short and simple so it's easy for kitty to learn. Teach the name by using it consistently.
Feeding: You should place the food and water bowls together, preferably in the kitchen. Special mats are available to help control spills. Use ceramic or stainless steel dishes - plastic can contribute to chin acne and is impossible to clean thoroughly. Provide fresh food and water daily, and clean dishes frequently.
Avoid the following foods: human foods as a general rule, chocolate, garlic/onions, dairy products, bones, fats, and all seafood. Stick with a proven high-quality commercial food to prevent potentially serious medical problems.
Sleep: Provide soft, washable bedding for kitty, and try placing it in a basket or cozy box near your own bed or in a sunny spot in the home. Give your kitten a soft or plush toy to cuddle with in bed to ease the transition away from littermates. We discourage shutting kittens out of your bedroom at night because cats hate closed doors and the resulting fuss will probably prove more disruptive to your sleep than nighttime roughhousing. Play with kitty for a while right before bedtime to encourage sleep patterns similar to your own.
Litter Box: The rule of thumb for litter boxes is one per cat, plus one - if you have the available space. The best location for the box is in the bathroom or a laundry/mudroom, well away from the feeding station for sanitary reasons. Clumping litter is best, but kittens need to be at least 8 weeks before using it so they do not eat it mistakenly. Scoop out the feces and urine clumps daily, and add more litter as the level drops. Wash the box itself on a regular basis (to get those near-miss marks off the sides). We advise against boxes with lids and the automatic cleaning type - they are gimmicky and can backfire badly. Kittens have a strong instinct to use litter and bury their own waste so they usually just need to be shown where to go.
Collars/ID: Get kitty a breakaway collar and adjust it so it just barely slips over the head. Don't forget to adjust it frequently as the kitten grows. Attach an ID tag with your current phone number. Consider having a microchip implanted at the time of spaying/neutering - we recently reunited an injured stray cat with its owners because it had a microchip - they were delighted.
Basic Safety: Never allow your cat or kitten to play with any potential linear foreign bodies such as string, thread, yarn, ribbon, rubber bands, sisal rope, or newspaper ties as these can cause fatal intestinal injury. Never give your cat or kitten any human medicines (including OTCs), vitamins, or cat grass unless your own veterinarian specifically instructs you to do so. Catnip IS safe, and kittens may safely partake of its mild euphoric effect, though some do not respond to it (and never will). Do not allow access to houseplants as many are toxic.
First vet visit: Schedule your new kitten's first visit with us for 3-7 days after you obtain it (sooner if it is still not on solid food). The first visit for vaccinations/parasite treatment is normally at 8 weeks of age, but kittens younger than that still need to be seen to make sure they do not have any immediate medical concerns. Obviously if kitty has vomiting, diarrhea, visible parasites, or is not eating enthusiastically, it needs to be seen promptly.
Naming: Keep it short and simple so it's easy for kitty to learn. Teach the name by using it consistently.
Feeding: You should place the food and water bowls together, preferably in the kitchen. Special mats are available to help control spills. Use ceramic or stainless steel dishes - plastic can contribute to chin acne and is impossible to clean thoroughly. Provide fresh food and water daily, and clean dishes frequently.
Avoid the following foods: human foods as a general rule, chocolate, garlic/onions, dairy products, bones, fats, and all seafood. Stick with a proven high-quality commercial food to prevent potentially serious medical problems.
Sleep: Provide soft, washable bedding for kitty, and try placing it in a basket or cozy box near your own bed or in a sunny spot in the home. Give your kitten a soft or plush toy to cuddle with in bed to ease the transition away from littermates. We discourage shutting kittens out of your bedroom at night because cats hate closed doors and the resulting fuss will probably prove more disruptive to your sleep than nighttime roughhousing. Play with kitty for a while right before bedtime to encourage sleep patterns similar to your own.
Litter Box: The rule of thumb for litter boxes is one per cat, plus one - if you have the available space. The best location for the box is in the bathroom or a laundry/mudroom, well away from the feeding station for sanitary reasons. Clumping litter is best, but kittens need to be at least 8 weeks before using it so they do not eat it mistakenly. Scoop out the feces and urine clumps daily, and add more litter as the level drops. Wash the box itself on a regular basis (to get those near-miss marks off the sides). We advise against boxes with lids and the automatic cleaning type - they are gimmicky and can backfire badly. Kittens have a strong instinct to use litter and bury their own waste so they usually just need to be shown where to go.
Collars/ID: Get kitty a breakaway collar and adjust it so it just barely slips over the head. Don't forget to adjust it frequently as the kitten grows. Attach an ID tag with your current phone number. Consider having a microchip implanted at the time of spaying/neutering - we recently reunited an injured stray cat with its owners because it had a microchip - they were delighted.
Basic Safety: Never allow your cat or kitten to play with any potential linear foreign bodies such as string, thread, yarn, ribbon, rubber bands, sisal rope, or newspaper ties as these can cause fatal intestinal injury. Never give your cat or kitten any human medicines (including OTCs), vitamins, or cat grass unless your own veterinarian specifically instructs you to do so. Catnip IS safe, and kittens may safely partake of its mild euphoric effect, though some do not respond to it (and never will). Do not allow access to houseplants as many are toxic.
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